So, who is still able to perform after all this time?
That is a question that I have asked myself, among other things, most recently? After a basement debacle; backing of a storm drain and subsequent vino diaspora to higher ground, I found that I have all sorts, types and appellations of singular bottlings that require consumption. So being the imbiber I be and having the meantime to reorganize and reprioritize all of these bottles, I found a few (Jeeeezus, 10 year old Napa Merlot) that I thought would be the equivalent to the opening of Al Capone’s Vault, cue Geraldo. It’s all over but the crying and the headache.
Tale o’the Tape
Round 1- The Exodus
The Pinot Noirs; I heart them until I get punched in the face because I have been cheating on them with Washington Syrah or the occasional dirty little Nebbiolo from Piedmont. But the rest of you ran to give approval to her fickle little heart en mass.
- Clos du Val, Napa-Carneros, 2005
Cork was clean and pristine; covered in tartrates. A lot of different things on the nose, some baking spice, wet leather, strawberry & rhubarb cake that I hated as a kid. Got a mouth full of Cherry flavored cigar. The finish was Hot, and that’s good if you are with someone you like but bad on this wine. Current vintage on this is 2008 and has always been a solid wine.
- Buena Vista , Sonoma-Carneros, 2005 (Say WHAT! A throwback for you folks who remember the old AHD, How’s the boat Chip?)
A little vinegar aroma on the cork, which could have been taken out with a slotted spoon or a hard tap on the punt. Smells were limited to cherry juice, wet cigars and nail polish remover. Astringent on the tongue, fruit was stewed and the body was gaunt. Shows that the current release on line is 2006 but that has to be wrong since I obtained this bottle back in the year of our lord 2007 AD.
- Voss Estate, Martinborough NZ, 2005 (Imported by Meadowbank Est.)
Opened with bright baked berries, potpourri and cedar tones on the nose. Cloved oranges, (‘Member making those in grade school; you member!) rosewater, cranberry relish and drying plum tannin on the finish. Seems pretty peak at this point. Availability is probably nil for this vintage but this producer is available in the US.
- Fromm Winery LaStrada, Marlborough, 2003 (Imported by Meadowbank Est.)
First aroma was autumn leaves then bazooka bubblegum and some Dr. Pepper on the nose. Palate was surprisingly coating and viscous with some mushroom ragu, cranberry sauce and raspberry cereal bar on the finish. Fell apart rather quickly and really showing some wood (Hee Hee), seemingly past its prime. Availability is probably nil for this vintage but this producer is available in the US.
Round 2 – The Ancestry
The Merlots; Where in the f*** did they come from? Merlot, once THE proud, regal California variety of choice in dining establishments; only to be usurped, mostly with help from a poorly distributed Paul Giamatti movie. C’mon? The only reason you saw it, is because it’s one of the few movies ever to feature “The Business” and you got to tell people ALL about Pinot Noir. Hells Bells! I get up and clap a tune when I see Clos du Val placements on Entourage.
- Swanson, Oakville-Napa, 2002
As I uncorked the bottle, I couldn’t help but feel the same emotion bubble up that is reserved solely for peeling back the steamy piece of cellophane from a perfectly heated Swanson frozen dinner. Nose had canned black olives steeped in my grandma’s Scottish tea (with apologies to the English whom, as I have been told since I was a child, couldn’t make a proper cup if held at gunpoint) and stirred with an oak stave. Raspberry iced tea, plums and bakers chocolate linger on the palate and are quickly turning into a Fruit vs Tannin MMA match. Definitely got to this bottle late. Current vintage on this is 2007 and I have been told the current offering is smashing, at least to English standards.
- Provenance, Carneros-Napa, 2002 ( For those that remember the St. Vincent & Sarah Fisher Garden Party, this was a leftover)
Pull the cork on this and the black fruit comes up to sting the nostrils. Black cherry, dunkin donuts coffee and a hint of mint gum. Once in my boca (mouth, for you kids that took German in high school) dried black cherries, blackberries with anise and dried herb tannins on the back end. Tom Rinaldi developed this merlot (with grapes from Andy Beckstoffer) based on the style he produced at Duckhorn for a little over two decades. Still showing off its pedigree with the swagger of a MILF on vacation. Current offerings range from Single Vineyards to the regular Napa Valley bottling, check with your preferred purveyor if interested.
- Trefethen, Napa, 2001
This just started poorly and finished same. Cork broke, first sip was a tongue full of sediment and my cat threw up right in the kitchen. After all was cleaned up (Cork, Tongue , Floor), from the glass we had more of the black olive in tea aroma (possible appellation correlations) luncheon meats and aromas of fruit chutney. On the tongue, take 2, little fruit and a lot of olive, balsamic and some harsh tannin. Got to this one late as well. Current Vintage 2007 and this has always been a benchmark for what merlot can be in NV.
Round 3 – The Contenders
The Sangioveses; They’re friends of ours. Shaking my head and smiling about these wines only because I know that Cal-Ital (a lovely hyphenated abbreviation for the California version of a wine that has Italian origination) can be a champion if respected, spoken to slowly and not compared to its cousins across the sea.
- Pietra Santa, Cinega Valley, 2003
Where? Cinega Valley, perfect place to grow this grape and the right guy is making it. Spoiler Alert! Alessio Carli was born and raised in Tuscany, grew up making Chianti with his Dad and then went to work for one of the most prestigious wineries in Tuscany, Badia a Coltibuono. If all of that means nothing to you, then take heed! This cat knows what the F he is doing with this wine. The nose is kalamata olives with sage and cranberry sauce with vanilla cream. In the glass, this drinks like a prime Brunello di Montalcino. Great integration of fruit, herbs, spice and tannin. Showing its age as the finish isn’t as intense as the wine promises up front. Current release is 2007 and should be reasonably priced.
- Luna, Napa, 2002
Damn, smells like my Granny’s house! Strawberries, lilacs, calililies, roses and barnyard funk hit the nose. Taste like cherry incense that my dirty high-on of a roommate used to burn to cover up his “medicine” (Well, that’s what it’s called by the Great State circa today) Interesting ripeness still on the back of the palate that dries up and gives me cottonmouth. Go figure. Current vintage 2008 on this one.
So what can I tell you about wines of a certain age? Can they be trusted, will they be there when you call them and will they disappoint you? Hell-if-I-know, but one thing is for certain…They’ll get you drunk.
I’d rather have a bottle of wine, beer or otherwise a year early rather than a day late. Don’t ever be afraid to allow even a modest ($8-$10) bottle of wine lay down for anywhere from 6 months to a year, it might surprise you. Or if you’re willing, invest a little more and buy 2 bottles, drink one now and keep the other to have later. Compare discuss, socialize, argue but above all else share. These can be fun or in the case of my basement stomach churning, experiences. Bottom line is to have fun with it kids! The majority of wine and beer today is made for immediate consumption, Like at a friend’s barbecue, where you meet the person of your dreams, you say something witty and a cartoon dune buggy driven by Megan Fox races through the yard with $100 bills flying out the back…wait sorry that’s the next video my brother in law is putting on You Tube.
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